John Lorenzo Hubbel was a merchant and friend of the Navajo, and he established this trading post in 1876 – it has been in operation ever since.
Reservation trading posts were often the only direct point of contact between Native Americans and the rest of the population. He was known for his honesty, hospitality and his wise counsel to the Navajo. For the Navajo, the trading post was a place to socialize as well as conduct business. They traded blankets, wool, sheep, pelts, turquoise and silver jewelry for groceries, tobacco, tools, cloth and other items. The post was a center for news and gossip – this was no quick trip to the grocery store.
Hubbell taught, translated letters, settled family quarrels, and explained government policy to the Navajo and during a smallpox epidemic, he even turned his house into a hospital.
The post is still looks pretty much the same, and Native Americans still bring in their wares for trade. Buying and selling – however, now it is not for profit. When trading died out, they were paid in tokens, then bits (Spanish currency) which some of the Navajo still prefer. The younger prefer American currency. While we were there, a Navajo woman came in with three pipes she had made, she talked for a long time with the man behind the counter (who looked like he was Navajo, but was not) in Navajo (which he said is very easy language to communicate in if you are not affluent – really??). Anyway, he told us that she prefers bits. Navajo also do not like to make eye contact – its considered impolite. He said its tricky to work with customers who are friendly and would consider it impolite not to make eye contact with and then remember to switch gears when a Navajo comes in.
Anyway , it was a really neat store … and we did buy a few really cool souvenirs. Its nice to support Native Americans and you know that your purchase is going directly to the artisan, and the artisan is who they say they are. Everything purchased comes with a tag certifying its authenticity.
Then off to Canyon De Chelly National Monument in Chinle. This is the only national park that is within the Navajo Nation and includes a residential community. The canyon has been occupied continuously for 20 centuries. There are scenic drives along the North and South rim of the canyon, and these are open to the public, as well as one hiking trail down into the canyon. Everything else is private and off-limits. Tours into the canyon are by authorized Navajo guides and tour companies.
Its main gorges are Canyon de Chelly (canyon in the rock) and Canyon del Muerto (canyon of the dead) - 26 and 35 miles long respectively. Sheer sandstone walls rise up 1,100 feet. Within the canyon there are more than 7000 archeological sites. The dwellings and cultivated fields of the present-day Navajo lie in the flatlands between the cliffs and they farm the way their ancestors did. There are horses, sheep, cattle, farms, hogans (I’ll explain that latter) and fields planted with crops.
Pictures do not do it justice – you can only fit so much in the camera lens.
About the Navajo – they call themselves Dine’ – The People. They have been living here for more than 400 years. When the Spaniards were here in the 1600s they called them “apaches of the Cultivated Fields.” They were hunter-gatherers. Before the Navajo - the Anasazi.
From childhood the Dine have been taught not to talk too much, be loud, or be forward to strangers. Its considered impolite or showing off. Little eye contact – touching is reserved for close friends and family, even a firm handshake might be considered overbearing. Much of the reservation is open range and herds more about freely - in the canyon and on the mesa above.
Our first impression is that the Dine’ are a very depressed people. The homes are in pretty rough shape, there’s a lot of garbage and litter. The horses look pretty skinny – but then again, I’m not a horse person. Lots of falling apart mobile homes, trailers and small shabby houses – lots with tires on the roofs. They are friendly people and very family oriented. At the different overlooks they have their wares set up – necklaces, jewelry, clay pots, etc.
Check out this lizard:
Now, for the Hogans – these are pretty cool. They were/are the traditional home. They are both residences and places for certain ceremonies. The Dine have a connection with their surroundings. They believe everything in the environment - birds, trees, animals, water, earth, air and humans have a connection and a balance. The balance between all these allow for peace and harmony in the world - the hogan is a representation of this balance. Usually have six sides and are built from materials readily available – wood, earth, stone, concrete. The doorway faces the east to welcome the sun.
The dine always believed the earth is round and everything in this world is connected within a circle - the cycle of day from morning to night and life from childhood to elder years. It would have a dirt floor to connect with mother earth. The walls represent everything on the land, like trees, mountains, animals and humans. The dome-shaped roof represents the sky and everything that is placed up there like the sun, moon and stars. All of these representation within the hogan help the Dine to remember who they are and how to maintain a balance to keep unity, peace and harmony among all.
This is a hogan that was at the Hubbell Trading Post - in the communities today the hogans are built with modern materials. It is common to see groups of homes built near a hogan - generational living. The younger generation have adapted western style living - square homes or mobile homes. But many still have a hogan for ceremonial uses to keep themselves in balance with nature.
Tune in tomorrow for - jeep tour in the canyon.
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